Grenada - Small Island, Big Tastes
Review by Patricia and Dennis Cleveland-Peck
Quick look
What To See
Eating Out
Sleepover
Getting There
Grenada is one of the least spoiled islands in the Caribbean and at only 34 x 18kms, it is small enough to explore thoroughly. The people are friendly, the weather warm all year round and accommodation at all prices is readily available.
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The turquoise sea with its miles of sandy palm-fringed beaches and hidden bays contrasts with the central area of mountainous rainforest, while the bustling capital St Georges, with its lively market has been described as the prettiest town in the Caribbean.
What To See : Back to top
The island is incredibly fertile and productive so there are old rum distilleries, nutmeg pools and plantations producing cocoa and spices to visit as well as beautiful private gardens stuffed with exotic plants.
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The surrounding blue waters offer excellent sailing, scuba diving and snorkelling – there is even an intriguing underwater sculpture gallery. The central mountainous Grand Étang National Park is made up of protected rainforest which is crossed by numerous hiking trials. There are sparkling waterfalls and places to indulge in the latest craze, river tubbing. The two neighbouring islands which make up the tri-island nation, Carriacou and Petite Martinique, are accessible for day visits by fast ferry.
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Eating Out : Back to top
The bounty of the seas and the amazing ease with which vegetables, spices and fruit grow means that there are plenty of treats in store for foodies. The ethnic mix of the population, who are mainly of west African descent with a small percentage of Indian, French and British has resulted in a unique traditional cuisine. Add to this a high number of skilled chefs operating in a range of establishments from street stalls to high-end restaurants and the result is something to please every taste.
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One of the best restaurants on the island is The Gary Rhodes at The Calabash Hotel (www.calabashhotel.com) . The dining room is entrancing with hundreds of white Thunbergia vine flowers suspended airily over the tables and music playing gently in the background.
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Our meal was excellent. I began with chilled gazpacho soup to which cubes of fresh melon had been added, perfect for a warm evening. Dennis chose a filet of grilled snapper with christophine and orange bouillabaisse and was equally delighted. My main course was a large piece of warm lobster served on the shell with Creole sauce and a timbale of rice and peas and Dennis selected seared Tuna Benedict with hollandaise and a warm poached egg. Neither of us could manage pudding so ended with our favourite night-cap, an Irish coffee.
At Le Phare Blue Hotel a retired Swedish Light ship has been converted into an unusual restaurant www.lepharebleu.com) and we were lucky enough to be there when new Swiss chef, Ulrich Borer launched his menu. We sat on deck beneath the twinkling lights enjoying gin and tonics before going below to the restaurant where the atmosphere was buzzing. Yatchies dressed in flowery shirts and deck shoes from million dollar boats in the marina below laughed with students in jeans and couples in designer outfits.
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The five-course meal was superbly cooked and prettily served. First came a little ramekin of tomato and mozzarella terrine with olive oil, then a delicious seafood risotto with tiny rings of spring onion, decorated with a prawn and leaves of basil. This was followed by a filet of pan fried grouper served on braised leeks and cinnamon oil. The ‘main’ course was a tender buttered rib-eye steak with potatoes and a ( slightly tough) vegetable roll. Lastly came a glorious dark-and-white chocolate mousse with strawberry sorbet and vanilla sauce. Memorable place, memorable meal.
These are two top-end restaurants but in Grenada there are many more local, homely and less expensive gastronomic establishments serving interesting specialities. One such is crab backs. These are land crabs, the flesh of which has been cooked with spices, herbs and vegetables, put back into the shell, dusted with breadcrumbs and baked. The place to sample them is BB’s Crab Back (www.bbscrabback.co.uk) on the waterfront in St Georges. The exuberant owner Brian spent many years running his own restaurant in Ealing before ‘coming home’.
Another good way of tasting a whole range of local dishes is at Patrick’s Home Style Cooking on Lagoon Road, St Georges. Here the meal consists of some 20 little tapas-like plates. We enjoyed the famous dasheen soup which is made from the leafy part of the popular staple, a tuber known as calalou. We also sampled lambie, the flesh of another local favourite, the conch shell, as well as fried jacks, rice and peas in coconut cream, stir-fried rabbit and the traditional speciality, ‘oil down’ , a rich one pot stew of ‘provisions’ ( root vegetables) cooked together with meat or salt fish, spices and coconut milk. It tastes much better than its name suggests.
Something you should not miss is Fish Friday, a weekly community event held at the little town of Gouyave. Food stalls are set up all along the street and as night falls every sort of fish and sea food is served to an appreciative crowd of locals and tourists. With musicians playing pans, and the rum flowing a good time is had by all.
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Sleepover : Back to top
The Calabash Hotel is elegant. Our impeccably furnished cottage was extremely comfortable with all the pampering extras including a fairly large and totally private plunge pool which was a boon for a dip before breakfast and late at night - although the turquoise sea was just across the well-tended gardens.
A superlative breakfast (in but all but coffee. Why do so many top-end hotels fail on this?) was prepared by our maid. Each morning she laid a fresh white tablecloth and, after bringing us juices, yogurt, plates of fresh fruit and cereal, she cooked our eggs, bacon etc. to order. The Calabash also serves a complimentary afternoon tea with sandwiches and cake, then, at 6pm canapés are delivered to your cottage…Impossible not to relax and enjoy.
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If the Calabash is the most refined hotel, perhaps the most stylish is La Luna (www.laluna.com) . Here, right on the beach, Italy meets Bali in a mix which somehow works. Italian owners Bernado Bertucci and his wife Wendy have paid close attention to detail and the result is the epitome of luxurious simplicity. Superbly fitted little cottages decorate the hillside while the large thatched communal relaxing area contains impressive hand-crafted Indonesian furniture complemented by sumptuous silk hangings and cushions. And as for the spa, where even the masseuses are Balinese – suffice to say you could never have a better massage in a lovelier setting.
For a truly hidden get-away, though, the boutique hotel, Petite Anse, www.petiteanse.com in the north of the island is the jewel in Grenada’s crown. Eleven cottages, each ‘a coconut’s throw from the beach’ extend down the hill while the upper room housing the restaurant has wide views over ocean with all its cooling breezes. Add to this wonderful locally grown food and the delightful and friendly hosts Annie and Phillip Clift and you have the recipe for stay in paradise.
As a destination, whether your aim is to bask on near perfect beaches, to explore its history and wildlife, or simply eat your way around the island, Grenada will not disappoint you.
Golden Caribbean www.golden-holidays.co.uk 0845 085 8080 offers seven nights bed and breakfast at the five star Calabash Hotel which includes return flights from London Gatwick, taxes, transfers from
£ 944.pp
www.grenadagrenadines.comfor more information about Grenada
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