Christmas Shopping The Norwegian Way
Review by Chris Hirschmann
Quick look
What To See
Eating Out
Sleepover
Getting There
At this time of year, as we're packing away our t-shirts and swimsuits ready for next summer, our thoughts turn to Christmas and more specifically Christmas shopping. Last December I was lucky enough to see Santa in his workshop whilst the snow was gently falling outside, pure magic. It so completely put me in the mood for Christmas that even thinking about it now is making me want to dash out and choose a tree! Where did I spot Santa, I hear you asking? It certainly wasn't Lapland, which can be extortionately expensive at that time of year; I spotted him in much more affordable Norway.
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Now most people probably won't have given Norway much thought when planning a Christmas shopping trip and I have to admit neither had I, but it proved to be the most magical place as the Norwegians love the festive season and make a huge effort to make it an unforgettable experience for anyone lucky enough to visit at that time of year.
Flying to Trondheim from London you land in a completely different world, a land of reindeer, snow, fabulous food and very friendly people. A couple of hours north of Trondheim is the little mining town of Røros, UNESCO World Heritage listed and one of the oldest wooden towns still existing in Europe, it's reputedly the coldest place in Norway and has lots and lots of very Christmassy snow!
What To See : Back to top
Arriving in the snowy darkness, a horse and sleigh awaited to whisk me off on a moonlight tour of the quaint little town and snuggled up in cosy furs I sat back to enjoy the bracing night air with steaming mug of mulled wine in hand. There is truly no better way of sightseeing and with the right companion could be very romantic!
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Next morning I awoke to the eerie 'blue hour', made even more special by the vast expanse of white wilderness outside my bedroom window, and after a delicious and very Norwegian breakfast set out on my next snowy adventure. A short drive out of Røros takes you to the home of Alaskan Husky Tours and something I never thought I would ever do; dogsledding. Musher and owner Ketil Reitan is on hand to give expert advice to novices and experienced alike as everyone is togged up in what can only be described as duvet suits and then encouraged to harness up their team of huskies before pairing up, one person driving and one person sitting comfortably warm wrapped in reindeer skins on the sled.
Being of the larger, older persuasion I opted to cover myself in furs and be driven at breakneck speed by five very excited huskies who obviously thoroughly enjoy their job and yes, what I’d heard was true, they do poop as they’re running along but it’s so cold that thankfully it freezes before it hits the ground! Dogsledding at -19c degrees gives you a voracious appetite so what better than elk fillet steaks cooked over an open fire in a lavvu, a traditional Norwegian temporary dwelling very similar to a teepee, followed by a most delicious blueberry soup with sweet-spicy sour cream.
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The afternoon found me wandering around the Christmas market in the centre of Røros where I was finally able to get down to some serious Christmas shopping. There's something about freezing air and softly falling snowflakes that makes you want to buy the beautiful handmade woollen mitts, scarves and slippers on offer not to mention the traditional Norwegian knitted sweaters; I was able to buy something for everyone. All around the little market are braziers of burning logs with reindeer skin covered benches for people to sit and enjoy mulled wine or some of the delicious Norwegian Christmas delicacies on offer.
Just a short stroll from the market, in a little courtyard, is where I came across Santa, in his workshop, making little wooden toys. The snow gently falling nearly obscured my view of him through the window but it was Santa nonetheless!
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Eating Out : Back to top
Norwegian celebrity chef Mikael Forselius has made his home in Røros and his Vertshuset restaurant is proud to source all the ingredients for its dishes from around the local area. The restaurant is part of the Rammgarden, formally an old textile factory, renovated in the style of old Røros. Forselius manages to make his restaurant feel like you’re stepping right into a cosy sitting room in one of the ancient wooden houses that line the streets in Røros with its warm atmosphere and blazing log fire.
The food may at first seem a little alien to us southerners with things such as reindeer, mountain char, tjokkmjolk (thick milk) and cloudberries but it soon became apparent that Norwegians know a thing or two about food.
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Starter, a fillet of mountain char (fish for the uninitiated) was served with whitefish roe nestling on a bed of cauliflower crème, giving the impression of a poached egg and topped off with bread crisp, a delicate filigree creation that melted in the mouth.
The main course of reindeer fillet, not unlike venison, was served with chanterelle ala crème, glaced beetroots (yum), a vanilla and red wine jus and small almond potatoes, a Norwegian delicacy. If you can get Rudolph out of your head then give reindeer a try, the meat is tender, tasty and very low in fat.
Dessert sounded a bit strange but was equally delicious, a local version of panacotta made with Norwegian ‘thick milk’ served with cloudberries picked in the nearby mountains. Cloudberries looking a little like golden raspberries are highly prized fruit and are nicknamed ‘highland gold’.
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Sleepover : Back to top
I stayed in the Røros Hotel, a short walk from the centre of Røros and a mere 5 minutes from the airport. The hotel has pleasant large airy rooms with very good double glazing to keep out the freezing Norwegian weather. A huge log fire greets you as you enter the lobby and there’s plenty of room for donning all those layers of winter gear necessary to brave the great outdoors. The hotel has a spa, swimming pool and sauna, great for warming up after a day in the snow. I went in winter but don’t forget Norway has lovely warm summers and there are plenty of summer activities on offer too.
www.roroshotell.no
Flights from Gatwick to Trondheim daily with Norwegian.com.
Røros Hotel www.roroshotel.no
Sleigh ride www.roros.no/index.php?c=76&kat=Kanefart
Vertshuset www.mikaelforselius.no
Dogsledding www.huskytour.net
For further information visit www.roros.no and www.visitnorway.co.uk
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