Quick look
What To See
Eating Out
Sleepover
Getting There

Helsingborg is a clean, lively and stylish city situated at the narrowest neck of the Öresund, the strait which separates Sweden from Denmark. This proximity in fact gives visitors two countries for the price of one - a twenty minute ferry ride brings you over to Danish Helsingør, aka Elsinore, where ‘Hamlet’s’ castle is a short walk from the ferry. 

 The city of Helsingborg, in common with the whole area of Skåne, was Danish until 1717 and to this day some residents speak disparagingly of ‘the Swedes’. The sparkling Öresund defines Helsingborg, one is never far from a beach It is also a remarkably easy city to explore as almost everything you want is within walking distance of the city square Stortorget.

What To See : Back to top

This is a city which celebrates Scandinavian design. Begin with a visit to Dunkers Kulturhus, the arts centre at the water’s edge of the North Harbour. This brilliant white landmark building was designed by the prize winning Danish architect Kim Uzon and contains a theatre, concert hall, museum, excellent design shop and restaurant. Stroll along the promenade quay, past more modern buildings to the Marina where you will find a typically Swedish touch, very welcome if the day is chilly - heated benches.
   
A stroll up Kullgatan, the main pedestrian street will bring you to Stortorget above which the old  Kanan Tower stands sentinel over the city as it has for 600 years. Take the steps up past gushing fountains for a spectacular view out to sea.
   
Much of the city was destroyed during the skirmishes which took place between Denmark and Sweden over the centuries but a walk along N. Storgatan will reveal some lovely old houses. Don’t miss the Henkel Complex which is tucked away up Springostgränd, here  a tiny garden which was laid out for King Gustav III’s visit in 1766, is surrounded by old buildings. The church of  Sta Maria, another old building dating from 1450 in  Danish Gothic brick style is also worth a visit.
   
Right in the middle of the city is the largest open-air museum in Sweden, Fredriksdal. A lovely old manor house, a botanical garden, a farm with rare breeds and lots of lively events during the year make this a perfect place for families.
   
Shopping in the city is all too easy. Karla Konstantverk a boutique run jointly by several artists and designers sells funky hats and gorgeous bags as well as sculpture and ceramics. For children, Knoll och Tott is a fairyland of dolls houses, teddy bears and child-sized furniture and Stenströms has magnificent clothing, especially menswear – the colour- coded shirt display could almost count as art. All these plus numerous shops selling well-designed items for the home and excellent jewellers  are there to exercise your plastic.
  
There are plenty of little cafes to duck into if you flag. Zoegas coffee has been roasted in Helsingborg since 1880 and Ebbas Fik is a fun place devoted to 1950s style. Chocoholics may prefer Pieter Beier’s amazing hot chocolate drinks – an indulgence which come in 8 flavours.

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Eating Out : Back to top

You will eat well. Skåne is famous for its game, vegetables, fungi and fish but it is also known for its master chefs. We headed first for Gastro, ranked best in Skåne and according to one newspaper, serving the best food in Sweden. Certainly chef Karl Bengtsson’s tasting menu composed from mostly local ingredients ( on many of which he offers a new and original take) is a dream. But you need to be hungry - the courses look small and are presented as minor works of art but in total it is very generous.
   
The first plate contains Norwegian monkfish, crab, tomatoes from Viken, garden peas, tapioca, melon and ‘distilled jus from the sea’; the second, caviar, beets from Gotland brioche and crème fraiche; next comes pan fried scallops from Kristiansund with artichoke, leek, roasted onion and barigoule jus; then a fish course followed by a dish of  ‘mushrooms from the woods served with fresh truffle’; the ‘main course’ is crispy duck breast and  homemade sausage of foie gras with cherry and turnips. As if this is not enough, there is a selection of cheeses and two pudding courses; one of raspberries and blackberries with vanilla and the other of pear, walnut  ice cream, granita, crispy French toast and araguani chocolate. With wines chosen to complement the dishes served throughout by an extremely competent young woman sommelier, it is certainly a meal to remember.

Our next culinary adventure was quite different but also good fun. Lagmans hold ‘Vin & Gourmetas’, a wine tasting accompanied by elegant portions of food inspired by the smörgåsbord For the wines we received a card charged with an amount of money. The bottles were in a vending machine which dispensed 5 ml of wine at a time. The price per 5ml depended on the quality of the wine and you could taste them all or refill your glass time after time with your favourite. The atmosphere, aided by the attention of three generations of the delightful Lagman family was  very jolly.

For sheer elegance a visit to the restaurant of Sofiero Castle to the north of the city is a must. Allow time to stroll around the exquisite gardens before entering the Gustavian dining room with its views over the Öresund. This is where the Royal Family spend some time in summer and the atmosphere, like the Swedish royals themselves, is utterly refined but in no way stuffy.

For our lunch we chose the typically Swedish dish of Sill & Laxbord, salmon and herring, a dozen varieties of which, in different marinades and with different garnishes, were set out on the long refrigerated table from which we made our choice. Served with warm new potatoes and good homemade bread it was as if we were experiencing the very taste of Sweden.
  
In Helsingborg you are in fact spoiled for choice of places to eat. We  enjoyed the friendly atmosphere and good food at Olson’s Skefferi an Italian influenced bistro near the Sta Maria Church and we also took a bus up the coast to Pålsjö Krog, a seaside restaurant overlooking the iconic  bathing place where brave individuals take a sauna and then plunge naked into the icy Öresund. Here the creamy fish soup is out of this world, very robust, it can be ordered as a starter or a main course.  
  
Helsingborg proved to be a city in which our all our culinary dreams were fulfilled.

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Sleepover : Back to top

The  boutique Hotel Maria, opposite Sta Maria’s church is centrally situated. It contains 16 rooms each decorated to an individual style: Gustavian, rococo, 1950s etc and on the plus side each is equipped with one of the superlative Hästens beds ( made from slow growing pine, put together without screw or nails with hand stuffed mattresses…) On the minus side, however, the rooms are the cramped side of cosy.
    
The Clarion Grand, the leading hotel, is also well situated in Stortorget and the rooms are clean, comfortable and functional and the service very good. It also houses a Japanese Nutja spa, convenient if a little self indulgence is required.

Getting There : Back to top

Easyjet (www.easyjet.co.uk) flies to Copenhagen and from there a direct train (www.sj.se) over the Oresund bridge takes 75 minutes to reach Helsingborg.
Clarion Grand Hotel www.clarionhelsingborg.se double rooms from 1080 SEK ( £102)

Hotel Maria www.hotelmaria.se doubles from 1150 SEK (£108)
Gastro restaurant (www.gastro.nu) * course tasting menu at 1095 SEK ( £103) wines to complement from 750SEK  (£68)

Sofiero Slottrestaurang (www.sofierorestaurang.se) Sill & Laxbord 185 SEK

Lagmark ( www.lagmark.se ) Wine & Gourmetas  295 SEK
Olson’s Skefferi (www.olsonskefferei.se)
Påljsö Krog (www.palsjokrog.com)