Quick look
What To See
Eating Out
Sleepover
Getting There

UK Peace and Tranquillity Week was the theme for a recent visit to County Durham.

On arrival, a Visit County Durham executive whisked me from the train station to pick up a rental car and gave me a fistful of Multi-Maps with which to find my way around the countryside over the next four days. Gulp. Which way was up? He guided me to the inner city for a ‘tranquil nature walk’ but I bolted before dusk, as I wanted Barnard Castle in my sights by nightfall.

After consulting with another walker, I arrived at Barnard Castle within 90 minutes but it was dark and where was ‘there’ in relation to bed? I called my host, Gail, who came to escort me back to their charming retreat, set amongst rolling dales off the A66.

As Northside Farm Retreat is self-catering, it would be misleading to suggest you might officially be fed. However, as I had eaten nothing since lunch on the train, Gail first apologized for her lack of cooking ability and then sat me down at her big wooden farm table for a steaming bowl of hearty lentil soup, accompanied by local brown soda bread and a glass of red wine. Only the nearby Rose & Crown was going to beat this kind sustenance. Restored, I went off to explore Connie’s cottage.

The next day opened up the many subtle vistas of County Durham, which verges on the Pennines. The sense of space, the quirky character of the villages and the friendliness and warmth of the County’s people make this a lovely spot for a holiday.

What To See : Back to top

Durham Cathedral, founded in AD 1093, dominates the city. Known as the UK’s best-loved building, and often as the greatest Norman building in Europe, its image is instantly recognizable to people who cherish this part of Britain. Built on a peninsula of land created by a loop in the River Wear, the cathedrals’ west end towers over a precipitous gorge. Entry is still gained via the medieval gatehouse.

Together with Durham Castle, which faces it across Palace Green, this spot is an icon of north-eastern England. Below, the banks of the river are abundant with wildlife, including otters and kingfishers, and smart skiffs rowed by young university women can be seen at dusk. After admiring their form, I headed out of town.

On Friday, I got lost on the way to a photography class with Graeme Peacock at Seaham, 30 minutes north of Durham. However, I arrived in good time at the cliffside location for some useful tips to improve my image-shooting skills. Then it was off to luxurious Seaham Hall, where Lord Byron was married. We were booked for treatments at their Serenity Spa. This – unsurprisingly, given its lush décor and elegance – has won a clutch of awards. I had an excellent Elemis massage by Louise Graham - one of the senior therapists.

The first appointment on Saturday was a painting workshop in the Durham Dales with North East artist, Bryan Brown. I took a wrong turn at Barnard Castle, accidentally found the Rose & Crown, and slithered over the dramatic contours of the moors down to Wolsingham, a pretty village full of golden sandstone buildings.

I was late. Having missed the all-important introduction, I decided to skip the outdoor part in order to get to Durham Dales Tearoom for lunch. It was show day at Stanhope and the traffic was already wheel to wheel. After an hour, I gave up and drifted up to Dunstall Reservoir. There, I spent a serene hour watching anglers in waders as they fished.

Refreshed, I scanned the stagnant traffic queues and headed in the opposite direction. By now very hungry, I ate simply of bread and fruit bought for exigencies in Wolsingham and moseyed gaily off towards the oldest surviving parish church in England, the Saxon Church of Escomb. I got lost again.

This time, a man in a white van gallantly led me on a five mile drive up hill and down dale to the little Saxon Church. Once there, I met up with Gill Beddow, a former vicar’s wife. She gave a knowledgeable talk about the building and history of the church, which dates back to the 6th c. Set in lovely grounds, it is Celtic in style and built from stone mostly tooled by the Romans.

Backtracking to Barnard Castle with Gill’s instructions took just an hour. Along the way, I discovered the huge, medieval Rabe Castle and estate. This was alive with harvesting work and I sneaked in to take some photos, disturbing a cluster of antler-festooned red stags as they browsed beneath huge trees near the castle ramparts.

I also visited Barnard Castle itself. Sitting high above the River Tees, it was built on solid rock in 1125 by Bernard de Balliol and its ruins include the 14th c. great hall, a three-storey keep and a round tower. An adventurous morning might be had exploring its old dungeons.

A visit to nearby Bowes Museum is mandatory. This was purpose-built in the French chateau tradition by John Bowes, a successful businessman who travelled to Paris in 1847. Four years later, he bought a theatre and married Parisian actress, Joséphine Coffin-Chevallier. They returned to Bowes to build up the greatest collection of treasures in Northern England.

On Sunday, I popped into Durham Botanic Gardens for check out the yoga training by Meri Erkkila from the Jambo Troung School of Yoga.

Eating Out : Back to top

Michelin starred Seaham Hall gave us a lavish afternoon tea of sandwiches, scones and cakes, accompanied by strong coffee and tea. We fell upon this with eager cries, having starved since breakfast.

Our next stop was for supper, back in Durham City at the local Oldfield’s Eating House. As afternoon tea had barely settled, we kept to entrees: chicken with mushroom and fennel, braised ox tongue, and Cullen Skink - a dish of smoked fish with leeks and potato. A pretty Prosecco Rose helped wash it all down but we all suffered from their unseasonable heating.

As Oldfields specialise in the Durham Blue Cheese made by award-winning cheese maker, Julia Cammiss, we shared some of this pleasantly sharp specialty before returning to Boldron in convoy.

The next day I visited The Saxon Inn in Escomb. And what a pleasant place they run, looking out over the old church and its grounds. Salmon Wellington or Ricotta Cannelloni with Spinach and Goats Cheese – either for £6.50 - has to be a bonus.

And finally, the culinary highlight of my visit: the Rose & Crown, one of the most decorated restaurants in County Durham. Run by Christopher and Alison Davy in Romaldkirk, Teesdale, they are staunch supporters of local Teesdale products. The food is sublime and the service is in the four star category. It offers just the right blend of friendliness and formality and they have timing down to a fine art.

As soon as I sat down, I was offered a glass of wine and an exquisite appetiser of tarragon chicken, mushroom, Madeira and cream. Another aperitif of local Cotherstone cheese with roasted baked tomatoes and basil dressing came before ‘dinner proper’.

The Rose & Crown’s four course dinner for £30 a person – choosing from five mains - is amazing value. My meal included piquant tomato, pepper and apple soup, grilled monkfish tails with an unusual braised tagliatelle of vegetables, and a warm plum tart for dessert. Unusually, I had coffee and chocolates. Everything was faultless.

I confess to also drinking a classy glass of Pinot Noir 2007, Seven Terraces, Marlborough, NZ, with my earlier dishes and a second NZ wine: Wild Rock, The Infamous Goose 2008, again from Marlborough with the remaining food. This was a fresh, zingy, lime scented Sauvignon Blanc.

You can stay at the Rose & Crown and, given their superb wine list, it would be well worth doing so to make the most of a special occasion. Even the diners are beautifully behaved! D, B&B from £119 (single) or £100 double.

Sleepover : Back to top

Connie’s Cottage is ideal for a family or two couples. Downstairs, there is a spacious, comfortable lounge, comfy sofas, flat screen TV and a fully-equipped kitchen. The ensuite master bedroom and bathroom opens with French doors onto the flag-stoned courtyard.

A granite stone and oak staircase leads up to the second, ensuite bedroom with its original beamed ceiling, two beds and sofa. Adjoining this bedroom are more areas for lounging around, including a library area with daybeds.

From the courtyard, you have private access to a heated, 14 metre indoor swimming pool, sauna and changing area. Reiki is available on request. A second cottage will open in spring and hiring the two cottages would provide ample room for a large family or a small yoga retreat.
Prices start at £300 per week.

Self-catering accommodation:
www.northsidefarmretreat.co.uk

Hotels and Spas:
www.seaham-hall.co.uk and www.rose-and-crown.co.uk

Getting There : Back to top

For information about County Durham and a Durham VIP Pass:
www.visitcountydurham.org

Enterprise Rental Cars, Durham