Quick look

Edinburgh in any season is a romantic or fun city escape with plenty to see and do, regardless of age or interest. August is the most popular month due to the myriad of Arts Festivals, with some six million visitors – don’t let this put you off, the festivals are well worth braving the crowds for. Any time of year is great, though Hogmanay (new year) is a fun time to visit, with the city’s official Street Party filled with Scots who really know how to see in a new year, and with the promise of snow – wrap up very warmly for this event! Edinburgh is the perfect size, one can walk the city in an hour, with good High Street shopping along Princess Street and boutiques throughout George Street. A buzzing night life is the city’s beating heart, though one can equally relax over a great coffee and a book in Waterstone’s on Princess Street, which has the best coffee shop view in town.

What To See : Back to top

Arthur’s Seat & Carlton Hill
It’s a joy to see a mountain that is an hour and a half from city centre to the top (at an uphill strolling pace!) From here you can either gaze out to sea, or back over the city – both views are breathtaking. If this sounds too much like hard work, Carlton Hill at the end of Princess Street is a ten minute climb with lovely views back over the city, and usually a good kite flying wind.

Edinburgh’s Festivals
Throughout the entirety of August several festivals overlap – the Fringe Festival, Jazz Festival, Book Festival, International Festival are all more than worth a look, though with so much to choose from, reading some reviews is advisable, The Scotsman produces a daily pull out section with a list of shows by time. Or take a chance and see the first show you are handed a flier for – you might just discover the next Stephen Fry or Catherine Tate.

Edinburgh Castle & Military Tatoo
The castle sits in the centre of Edinburgh, perched on a very imposing rock and is worth a look for the views alone, though the entry fee is quite steep and the views from outside are free! During August the Tatoo is an impressive sight and a big tourist draw, with great military displays and piping. The fireworks that close the ceremony every night are fabulous, and, again free if you happen to be strolling near the castle - this is very romantic sight.

Armstrong & Sons
This vintage clothing shop is an absolute gem, and is worth a visit just to browse their astounding collection of apparel from every era for both men and women. It is a treasure trove and a living museum in one.

Eating Out : Back to top

Scotland has recently introduced it’s ban on indoor smoking. Very few restaurants have designated areas, though Ricks and The Stockbridge Restaurant provide stylish though overpopulated places to puff.

The Stockbridge Restaurant, 54 St Stephen Street, Edinburgh, EH3 5AL 0131 2266766 www.thestockbridgerestaurant.com
Where can I start in praise of this elegant, warm, seductive little place? Tucked away under the tiered stone steps of a small Stockbridge street littered with independent boutiques, ivy and fairy lights coil round the iron railings, while pretty hanging baskets adorn the entrance. Once inside you are greeted by an intimate low ceilinged restaurant of just ten tables, with stylishly upholstered cream chairs, thick white linen and black walls. Quietly opulent and decorated with more fairy lights, this place is simply enchanting. The staff are friendly, attentive and poised but entirely unpretentious, which pretty much sums up the whole atmosphere.

The A La Carte menu is a feast - salad of parma ham, mozzarella and figs with rocket pine nuts and balsamic syrup, which was simple and delicious, and the seared scallops with a spring onion blini, crushed vine tomatoes, bacon and sage, which was sea fresh and a delightfully unusual combination.

But the real stars here are the puddings – hot chocolate fondant with white chocolate mousse and raspberries, and Vanilla and lemon cheese cake with strawberry salad. These speak for themselves!

Come here with your partner, come on a first date, come with your family and friends, it will be worth it.

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Ricks, 55a Frederick Street, Edinburgh, EH2 1LH 0131 6227800 www.ricksedinburgh.co.uk

Ricks is a slick, uber-chic cocktail bar and restaurant with elegant leather booths and heavy silver cutlery. It is filled with a fun but loud crowd of young Edinburgh-ites throughout the week. The menu has a fantastic range, but be prepared to have to shout to your companions over the noise! The whole baked camembert with toasted brioche and berry conserve is absolutely incredible, and billed as a starter for two, though we were near to bursting by the time our mains arrived. Pan seared salmon fillet with baked avocado was delicious, as was the Roast red pepper and cherry tomato risotto with rocket and parmesan. Ricks is a fun night out with Edinburgh’s hip young things.

Amber Restaurant, The Scotch Whiskey Heritage Centre, 354 Castlehill, The Royal Mile, Edinburgh, EH1 2NE, 0131 4778477
www.amber-restaurant.co.uk
Beneath the tourist centric Scottish Whiskey Heritage Centre by the Castle lies this wonderful little bistro, serving mainly lunch: Lunch at a Scotch Whiskey restaurant… could anything sound more indulgent or dangerous for that matter? Amber, at first glance, seems terribly touristy, with olde worlde quotes about whiskey adorning the walls, and slightly bland décor. Do not let this put you off, because Amber offer a locally sourced Scottish menu that is a gastronomic delight. Their friendly and relaxed staff are happy to explain the more unusual items on the menu, and to guide you through the weighty tome that is their whiskey menu… over 350 varieties.

Heights Restaurant, 31-35 Grassmarket, New Town, Edinburgh, EH1 2HS, 0845 365 0002, www.apexhotels.co.uk
On the fifth floor of the Apex International Hotel in Edinburgh’s Grassmarket you will find the most delightful views over the capital’s undulating roof tops and hidden alleyways. Overlooking the impressive castle, the Heights can probably claim the best view in Edinburgh, after the castle itself! They say they can almost guarantee everyone a table by the glass wall of windows to take all of this in.

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Valvona & Crolla, 19 Elm Row, Edinburgh EH7 4AA, 0131 5566066
www.valvonacrolla.co.uk
First and foremost this is Scotland's oldest Delicatessen and Italian Wine Merchant and one of Europe's original Specialist Food Shops, founded in 1934. The Caffe Bar is hidden up the stairs at the back of the shop which is a grotto of culinary ecstasy in itself. The décor is deceiving, it looks like a quaint little tea shop, but one glance at the menu assures you that you really have stumbled across something very special indeed.

We were treated to platters of sublime char-grilled vegetables and mozzarella balls so utterly divine they popped then melted on the tongue, platters of the finest elegant cold Italian meats, and courgette flowers stuffed with anchovies. And that was just to start. The wine list is extensive and exquisite with so many stand out flavours you cannot fail to find a wine that will send you into raptures. When the meat lasagne was announced one of our group held up her hands in horror, she was a vegetarian. Within minutes a sumptuous fresh linguini with millions of tiny chanterelles and simple olive oil appeared astonishingly quickly, which was a triumph that everyone dipped into. The true star was the coffee ice cream served with a shot of espresso and a shot of kaluha to pour over. Dishes and spoons were licked, unfinished wines were re-corked and taken home to savour, and everyone left with an enormous smile on their faces.

The Baked Potato Shop, 56 Cockburn St, Edinburgh, EH1 1PB, 0131 225 7572
This is a superb place to grab lunch on the hop, or on a budget. That it is a vegetarian establishment is entirely incidental, when I pointed this out to my friends who were regulars, no-one had noticed! For under three pounds you can get a perfect fluffy hot potato with a crisp jacket, filled to bursting point with more fillings than you can imagine. Sheer potato bliss!

Getting There : Back to top

Flying is possible and quick, though the journey from Edinburgh airport is a bit of a trek. Best is to jump on the GNER (roughly 4 hours from London) and you will be treated to some of the most dramatic and beautiful stretches of coastline in Britain, from just before Berwick-upon-Tweed to well beyond. When facing forward, these views are on your right. It can sometimes be cheaper to book two single journeys than a return

Isabel Robinson