Bridging the hunger gap

Review by Nigel Duncan

Nine years ago Paul Steward launched The Boat House restaurant in a stunning location in the middle of picture-postcard South Queenferry with views of the iconic Forth Rail Bridge, the world’s second-longest single span bridge.

Since then, the establishment has made a mark on the local restaurant scene thanks to word-of-mouth promotion.

Paul has also built a significant clientele from the Lothians and Fife, plus a healthy trade from walk-up tourists from around the world, and he continues to develop the product.

His extensive use of Scottish meat, fish and vegetables, coupled with innovative twists, makes The Boat House a regular for many.

The pleasingly uncluttered decor of whitewashed walls and polished wooden floor, plus the magnificent view over the River Forth towards Fife, makes this a most pleasant place to eat.

There is sufficient choice even for the most picky and the menu also includes succulent steaks, a welcome alternative for those who prefer meat rather than fish. All meals come with the chef’s choice of vegetables.

Seven starters were on offer on the night we went, a freezing, grey Friday between Christmas and New Year.

The warm welcome and the chilled-out ambience made us feel at home and we took time to ponder the menu before selecting.

A seafood bisque, grilled goats cheese with a pickled walnut salad and a roast red pepper sweet chutney, Scottish mussels in a white wine, cream and garlic sauce, six fresh Scottish oysters with a red onion and red wine vinegar dressing, or locally oaked smoked salmon with capers and lemon were all enticing.

However, Pam plumped for a smoked haddock fishcake with homemade tartar sauce and lemon. The fishcake was well-presented and packed with flavour.

My ham hough, quail and Stornoway black pudding terrine came with a memorable smoked apple puree. It was both eye catching and pleasing to the palate with none of the flavours overpowering. The dressing on the side salad was delicate and added to the overall dish.
Six mains were available plus three char-grill options, a rib eye 14oz, at 10oz sirloin on the bone and a 7oz fillet steak.

Pam plumped for a fillet. It came with six man-sized, home-cooked chips plus vegetables. It was succulent and slipped over as did the chunky chips.

I agonised over the fish offerings. Giant king prawns with a garlic and lemon butter and yellow fin tuna, seared and served with a fresh mango salsa were first to be excluded. Why? Not local.

Whole seabass with tomato, olive and lime butter was a real possibility so was the fillet of seabream with fresh herb and garlic hollandaise sauce on a bed of kale.

Also eye-catching were the Oban scallops, seared with white truffle scented olive oil, but I plumped with the wild Scottish halibut fillet because of the intriguing prospect of an orange, pink peppercorn and ginger reduction.

The accompanying asparagus and carrot were just right but the broccoli a tad overdone for my taste.

However, the colourful sauce reduction was both pleasing to the eye and packed a tasty punch. Surprisingly, it didn’t overpower the fish.
We passed on the sweets which included sticky toffee pudding with vanilla ice cream, pannacotta with apple puree and white chocolate brulee. There was also a selection of cheeses.

Instead, we had coffee, incidentally, supplied by Matthew Algie. The roast we had was superb.

A disappointment was that the splendid Victorian rail bridge was not lit, but you can’t have everything.

Paul and his wife Suzanne have nurtured the restaurant from day one and live locally, almost above the shop. It is their baby and it shows.
They also cater for those who don’t want linen tablecloths or want to go as a family and desire a little less formality in an adjoining bistro. Diners still enjoy the world-class view.

22 High Street, South Queensferry, Edinburgh, EH30 9PP
+44 (0)131 331 5429
Open seven days
www.theboathouse-sq.co.uk