Having said that, only stuff with a really special punch of flavour can stand out in the crowded aisle of cooking sauces, so maybe you’d be better with Tesco’s value and give some change to the chugger?

The big danger in a cooking sauce, especially a Bolognese, is to be too oily or salty. Seriously Good Bolognese & Red Wine is full of spices, balsamic vinegar and soffrito (a classic French aromatic mix) instead of the poor-quality oil that usually bulks up cheaper sauces. So it delivers tonnes of complex flavours which you can enjoy with your own olive oil. And for the first time in a Bolognese sauce ‘with red wine’ I actually smelt the tannin of red wine. But the flavours are highly concentrated in a single jar of Seriously Good and it certainly wouldn’t hurt to dilute them with another jar of chopped tomatoes. It might also help to make the end-result less salty.

In Gordon’s Cherry Tomato & Balsamic on the other hand, the saltiness of the vinegar is perfectly offset by sweet cherry tomatoes. It’s a lovely combination and with the Spicy Red Pepper & Spianata Sausage (not spicy) actually makes a subtler and more satisfying accompaniment to meat - I simmered it with lamb mince - than the Bolognese.

The weakest of the bunch must be the Tomato, Black Olive & Mixed Herb which is more oily and salty than the others, presumably to make up for the paucity of olives or other headline flavours.

Gordon Ramsay’s Seriously Good Sauces just about qualify as a worthwhile little extravagance. Particularly Spicy Red Pepper & Spianata Sausage. You’ll feel good gobbling them up because they’re better than average, and because your money’s going to kids instead of Gordon Ramsay.