Afternoon tea at The Goring: A quintessentially British affair
Written by Helen Varley

News... Restaurant Review... Afternoon tea at The Goring: A quintessentially British affair The concept of afternoon tea conjures up images of country gardens, elegant teapots and powered ladies dressed in their Sunday best.

The Goring in London is offering this quintessentially British experience over the summer, offering city dwellers a slice of the country. Seated on the terrace, overlooking the hotel’s private garden and historical buildings it is the perfect place to enjoy the high tea tradition in the surroundings of London’s oldest privately owned hotel.

To start, a waiter brings a ‘summer sting’ champagne cocktail, a sweet and refreshing combination of nettle cordial, apple juice, champagne with a touch of grenadine.

Mixing the modern with the traditional, the ‘amuse bouche’ is eggs drumkilbo, which was one of the Queen Mother’s favourites and was developed by The Goring with staff from the palace.

A mixture of lobster, egg, crayfish and topped with chicken consommé, this combination is delicious, with lovely meaty shellfish and creamy undertones.

After being offered a variety of traditional, fruit and floral teas we opted for The Goring’s special afternoon blend of Assam and Darjeeling. Nicely perfumed but quite delicate, it positively complimented the rich food by being more subtle in flavour.

Alongside the tea came the tiers of food – starting with the finger sandwiches, which are flavoured guinea fowl and wild mushroom, smoked salmon, coronation chicken, and egg mayonnaise.

The sandwiches themselves were thick with filling giving the full impact of the different flavours. The most interesting was the guinea fowl, which tasted meaty, smoky and creamy concluding in a delicious flavour that I have never come across before.

Next, the scones with assorted jams and lashings of clotted cream. The scones themselves were firm and buttery and crumbled in your mouth and were utterly divine.

The top tier held the mini cakes and deserts that looked like little works of art. The whole tea has a flower theme and it is this fusion of modern flavours with traditional dishes that makes this a unique experience.

Rosewater Victoria sponge with an edible decorative crystallised petal is light and delightful with soft sponge and a tangy raspberry preserve inside. A mini pot of lavender crème brulee was rich, creamy but the twist of lavender gave it a flowery flavour that worked beautifully, although it was a shame the top of the brulee was not caramelised.

An elderflower strawberry tartlet was a popular favourite and the strawberries released the favour of summer. An apple jelly and blackcurrant foam crumble was my personal favourite. Light, zingy with a crunchy top, this was a really creative way to twist a traditional favourite into a contemporary classic.

Less memorable were the lemon curd macaroon and chocolate and mint slice.

Finally we were brought The Goring’s “not quite a trifle”. Served in a shot glass, it seems almost impossible to eat after such a rich and decadent meal. With a hint of sherry, it does taste absolutely gorgeous – if you have any room left!

The Goring offers more than just an average afternoon tea – it offers the traditional experience with a colourful twist made all the more pleasant by the peaceful private garden in the centre of a concrete jungle.

The Goring’s Country Garden Tea is £32.50 and is available till 31st August. Booking recommended. www.thegoring.com

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