It’s a standard 140g Lindt bar, but instead of being a slab of solid chocolate, inside is a foamy mousse. Being a nutty fan, the hazelnut one was an instant hit: sweet, creamy, with actual mini hazelnut fragments, giving the mousse a slight bite.

After three or four squares it did however start to get a little sickly. The same was true of the dark variety. While the hazelnut bar was too sweet to be able to be scoffed in the rapid fashion that most chocoholics like to indulge in, the dark bar was simply too rich. So it is no good comparing this to the Dairy Milks of the confectionary world that have got the cocoa, milk and sugar ratio down to a tee.

However, these airy bars create and fill a new niche. It’s a dessert in a bar, essentially. If the success of those GU ‘adult puds’ is anything to go by, Lindt Mousse au Chocolat is going to be rather popular. Because the dark bar is the GU mousse, in a bar. It really is.

Perfect for sharing with friends after a dinner party (instead of dessert, or OK, after dessert with coffee, you greedy people) or eating alone after a meal for one, curled up in front of the box. It does feel very indulgent. But it is too messy to eat on the bus. As one friend put it: ‘It’s scrummy, and very spesh’, but breaking squares off is a messy business.’

A few squares of the dark bar are also a delight when eaten in conjunction with some fresh strawberries, as I have just done at my desk, naturally making a bit of a mess. After these sweet treats, it was on to sampling the Lindt Excellence 90% Cocoa product.

The chocolatier that concocts this bar calls it the ‘ultimate dark chocolate experience for any chocolate lover’. But for me, the 90% label fills me with trepidation. To me it says (in a sophisticated French voice): Cocoa, with a tiny hint of milk and sugar. Call me old-fashioned, but an ultimate chocolate experience isn’t a heap of bitter cocoa that makes you shudder. At the risk of sounding like a Galaxy commercial and a stereotypical woman, I want a creamy, silky, rich experience.

However, I reluctantly pop a square of the ebony chocolate in my mouth. If you suck it slowly, you can just about eke out some creaminess. The overall flavour reminds me of a decent red wine, which I guess is quite pleasant. Although it is odd since in chocolate I expect creamy sweet bliss.

But I do know that some people like this kind of intense cocoa hit. Such as my boyfriend. Yes, the bar will stay in one of his kitchen cupboards for about six months, but he will occasionally go and get that ‘ultimate dark chocolate experience’ and it does put a smile on his face.