Full of Puglian promise – Why the ‘heel’ of Italy is anything but down at heel
Written by Alex Walters
Brindisi is a marvellous place. Ancient Roman port and gateway to Greece, it lies on the heel of Italy’s boot-shaped southern coast, and has seen centuries of historical, cultural and culinary evolution. The food of Brindisi is dominated by its climate. Hot sun and dry soil make for powerful, potent wines and rich, creamy olive oils.
In a veritable tour de force of southern Italian cuisine, some of the most exciting, innovative and respected producers of the Brindisi area descended on London last week. Brown’s Hotel in Mayfair has played host to the great and the good on many an occasion, but even it had perhaps never seen gastronomic delights such as this.
In an impressive array of pastas, liqueurs, cheese and wine, the most impressive in the field was undoubtedly the work of the Masseria Il Frantoio. This small farm house between Bari and Brindisi produces some rich and flavoursome varieties of olive oil, much of which comes from trees on the estate that have been harvested for generations. Still more remarkable, however, was their ‘Rosolio’ digestif. Made with macerated olive leaves (yes, leaves) and weighing in at an incredible 50% ABV, it was a smooth, soothing and warm experience with none of the overpowering nature its strength might imply. The Masseria Il Frantoio combine their production with a number of guest rooms, and visitors can enjoy the delights of the produce whilst staying on their beautiful estate.
Other standouts of the day were the wines of Agri Melillo, who do a superb range of family produced reds and whites. Of particular note was their ‘Principe D’Angio’, a deep, powerful red that would pair well with a thick cut of fillet steak.
The produce of Brindisi has often found itself languishing behind some of its more celebrated regional rivals in the Italian export market, yet here was a shining example of why small, family run enterprises from the south can challenge the bit-hitters of Tuscany and Lazio.
www.masseriailfrantoio.it
www.agrimelillo.com |