"We are noticing that people are widening their taste in meat, not just at Christmas, but throughout the year.

"A growing favourite is goose, and although it is expensive, lots of customers feel it is well worth pushing the boat out for at Christmas.

"We also anticipate a big increase this year in the demand for organic, free range and the slow-growing but flavoursome Bronze turkey."

Christmas meats can be ordered at www.tesco.com

Sainsbury's has a new Taste the Difference breed of turkey alongside its Bronze birds this year - the smaller Norfolk Black (3-7kg, £5.69kg).

"Geese, duck and guinea fowl demand is on the increase as customers try something new for Christmas as an alternative to turkey," said spokeswoman Vicky Cotton.

"Sainsbury's are expecting a 40% growth in sales. We are also offering organic whole turkeys, Duchy Original organic whole turkeys and Duchy Original organic turkey breast joints.

"There is also a growing demand for the convenience of crowns and we will have a greater number available, oven ready in foil trays, complete with a pre-inserted pop-timer to give the tastiest and safest turkey ever."

Christmas meats can be ordered at www.sainsburystoyou.co.uk

MARKS & SPENCER has, as usual, a superlative choice of Christmas meats, many of them available to pre-order at your local store.

Turkeys come whole in roasting bags, jointed and wrapped in parma ham, deboned and, exclusive to M&S, the Devon Bronze Organic Traditional Free Range Turkey (£59.95-£71.82).

Other meats include beef forerib with winterherb butter and sweet roast garlic, a limited edition Brenock Lamb joint, a guard of honour stuffed with cranberries and apricots and a whole deboned pheasant.

More information at www.marksandspencer.com

PHEASANTS' HILL FARM outside Downpatrick specialises in free range and organic rare breeds. Its organic Bronze turkey averages at £46, geese from £36, pheasants £7.99 each and ham from £4.75lb.

"We also produce guinea fowl, quail, partridge, venison and rare breed lamb," said owner Janice Bailey. "Our delicatessan also supplies smoked duck, chicken, eel and goose, and wild Irish smoked salmon."

Janice has noticed a big rise in consumption of game birds all year round, venison through the winter, and a rise in the popularity of the Christmas goose.

All the farm's rare breed pork is dry cured - probably the only place in the province to do this - and she recommends a "delicious" rolled collar of bacon from £3.30lb as a nice alternative to ham.

Janice is especially proud of theselection of Dexter beef cuts, from £5lb topside to £14.50lb fillet, which she says "knocks spots off" Aberdeen Angus.

Pheasants' Hill Farm Shop, 37 Killyleagh Road, Downpatrick, tel: 44617246; Butcher's Shop, Bridge Street Link, Comber, tel: 91878470. Last orders Dec 12, last home delivery Dec 16 (free for orders over £25 in Belfast and Co Down). Collections dates: Dec 23 and 24.