The Crown Inn - North Yorkshire

Main Street, Great Ouseburn, York, YO26 9RF
+44 (0)1423 330013
www.thecrown-inn.com

Review by Emily Stead

This country inn set in the heart of North Yorkshire may not have the stature of some of the other gastropubs in the county, but the Crown at Great Ouseburn is fast earning itself a reputation for quality cooking and equally fine hospitality. Recently named 'Yorkshire Pub of the Year 2011', I was keen to visit before word spread further.

Only eighteen months ago this was just another unremarkable village boozer, with no kind of reputation for its food. Now, having been lovingly restored by the present incumbents, the Crown is an elegant pub that takes its food and service seriously.

Drinks haven't been forgotten either: the regularly changing real ales usually feature local brews such as Black Sheep and Timothy Taylor's, and the wine list is updated to complement the seasonal menu too.

The building's 18th century exterior, although respectable enough, doesn't allude to the sophisticated dining that awaits inside. Once through the door, however, everything about the Crown smacks of good taste, from the stripped-back décor (think restored timber beams and flagstone floors) to what's served up on the plates. We were welcomed by the landlady who seated us next to a roaring fire in the bar area, though you can choose food from the restaurant menu here too.

À la carte scallops came served with crispy pancetta and a squash and bacon purée. The added apple compôte was arguably one sweet ingredient too many, though the cooking was accomplished and the dish looked beautiful. My baked goat's cheese and poached pear salad was a tasty opener too with caramelised walnuts a nice touch.

The Crown uses its rural location to make excellent use of fresh, seasonal, local produce throughout the menu. Classic British dishes such as the lamb trio (fillet, stuffed loin and Barnsley chop) are sourced from the Dales, while the food mileage of the belly pork with cheek and crackling comes in at less than twenty, via a rare-breed pig farmer at Thirsk.

This being game season, though, I decided on the venison fillet. Again the meat was farmed locally and cooked expertly. Served pink, each mouthful was extremely tender. Accompanied by roasted fennel, fondant potato and blackberries on a bed of 'crackling salad', this was autumn on a plate.

Talking of plates, we couldn't leave without attempting to tackle the assiette of house desserts. Wow. This comprised a slab of deliciously rich chocolate and ginger tart, the stickiest of toffee puddings, the obligatory crème brûlée, a warm chocolate brownie, white chocolate cheesecake and some bejewelled home-made fudge. Not wanting to waste a morsel of this delectable platter, we were relieved that it's now considered acceptable to ask for a doggy bag.

It's rare to find an independent, owner-operated food pub that's worth its (Maldon) salt; the Crown is one such operation. Already greedily drooling at the thought of next month's menu, we're also planning a pre-dinner ramble around the Brontë trail… Well, we need to justify reordering the assiette somehow!