The Fox - Willian
Willian, Hertfordshire, SG6 2AE
+44 (0)1462 480233
www.foxatwillian.co.uk

Review by Jane O’Connor

Eating Out... Restaurant Review: The Fox - WillianSituated in a superb location by Willian’s tranquil village pond and just a pebble’s throw from Junction 9 of the A1, no hunting is required to find The Fox; an impressive Hertfordshire Gastropub offering excellent food at reasonable prices.

Part of the Anglian Country Inns Group, The Fox’s Head Chef Chris Jones and his team offer an exciting eclectic menu which includes Asian and Modern British cuisine with fish as a specialty. Light and airy with a contemporary design, the main restaurant also has a glazed atrium, beer gardens and a courtyard.

As my guest I took along someone who knows what she does and doesn’t like; my sister Sheila. We received the warm welcome that is promised by newly promoted Director of Food Harry Kodagoda, who has just received an award for the best Fish & Chips in the country in the Great British Pub Food Awards 2010. Quite an achievement considering there were 15000 other competitors across the country.

From the impressively global wine list we chose a bottle of Mánnara, Grillo / Pinot Grigio, 2007 Sicilia and at £17.00, not too expensive. It was fresh, light and interestingly zesty; all that a decent Pinot Grigio should be.

Eating Out... Restaurant Review: The Fox - WillianEating Out... Restaurant Review: The Fox - Willian

Sheila’s starter of Thai Spiced Fishcakes with Cucumber and Coriander Salad with Sweet Chilli and Coconut Dip had a range of intriguing Asian flavours. I had Cyril’s handpicked Brancaster Mussels served with a Mariniere Sauce; juicier mussels would be hard to find and the sauce was delicious.

The menu is seasonal and local produce is sourced where possible. Mains like the Braised Shoulder of Lamb are brought alive by their accompanying deep and rich sauces. My Cajun Spiced Cod Fillet, Garlic Crushed New Potatoes with a gorgeously sweet Turmeric and Coriander Cream was really good and another example of Chris Jones’s varied menu.

The desserts were also excellent; Sheila’s choice of Strawberry Champagne Jelly with Chantilly Cream and Viennese Shortbread was refreshing and light. My Chocolate Truffle Doughnuts Glazed Orange Segments, Cardamom and Pistachio Ice-Cream were wonderful; indulgent while managing to stay one step short of guilt-inducing stodginess.

Impressive and inexpensive food in delightful surroundings.
Approximate price per head £29 excluding drinks.


 
   
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