Stac Polly Bistro - Edinburgh
38 St Mary’s Street,
Edinburgh
+44 (0)131 557 5754
www.Stacpolly.co.uk
Review by Nigel Duncan
Stac Polly is the non-Gaelic way of writing, Stac Pollaidh, a spiky little beast of a mountain which rears up immediately to the north of the single track road from the A835 to Achiltibuie in Wester Ross.
Well, Stac Polly Bistro in the heart of Edinburgh’s tourist area is, like the mountain, certainly distinctive, and it hits the heights gastronomically.
I’ve passed the restaurant countless times since it opened in 2007 going to and from a popular car park. However, shame on me, I’ve not ventured in despite having sampled the fare offered by one of its sister restaurants in Grindlay Street. There is another in Dublin Street.
I should have because this restaurant is a gem. It delivers on value, style of presentation and in intimacy. It was a joy to be there.
We dined on a steamy Saturday night. The French window was open and the back room had a special charm. Tartan trimmings on the curtains and the black and white prints of Scottish ministers (English equivalent is a vicar) and figures from the judiciary, added a quaint touch.
A special feature was the floral arrangements which added a touch of style to the pleasantly informal dining room.
So to the food. Two courses for £16.95 and three for £21.95. Four starters were on offer. It was too warm for the smoked haddock, leek and potato chowder, and I by-passed the warm tartlet of courgette, aubergine, sun-blush tomatoes and Scottish cheddar cheese, beetroot salsa and dressed leaves.
I also side-stepped a steaming bowl of West Coast mussels, chilli, herbs and tomatoes for the signature starter, baked filo pastry parcels of haggis served with a plum and red wine sauce.
Visually, the dish was stunning. It arrived on a white plate and the three haggis parcels were positioned on the sauce. A touch of greenery added to the eye-catching dish.
And the taste. Both Pam and I were bowled over. The light pastry, moist haggis, sourced from Fife, and the rich, red sauce were superb. It is not, however, served as a main course and I can see why. The rich sauce could become a tad overpowering in a bigger helping.
Five main choices – including a vegetarian option, which you ask for - had us thinking. As I’d already enjoyed haggis as a starter, the traditional tower with neeps (turnips) and tatties (potatoes) with a Glavya liqueur reduction was not considered.
However, the fillet of hake, celeriac mash, fine beans, saffron and lime cream plus dressed leaves, was tempting. I eventually plumped for lamb casserole served with butterbeans, chorizo, broccoli, mint and port sauce which proved too much of a lure. What’s more, the dish was superb, the chorizo mixing wonderfully with the butter beans and the sweetness of the lamb.
Pam slected a bistro favourite, pork, mushroom, pepper and onion skewers with sauteed potatoes. The flavour, as they say in a tea advert, flooded out.
There was room for pud – thank goodness. Stac Polly saved the best to last. The steamed lemon and ginger sponge was so light as to almost float and the creme anglaise sauce was perfect.
I opted for elderflower sorbet. Three fresh raspberries and a sprig of mint adorned the white sorbet balls – beautiful in construction and so refreshing.
I am often asked to recommend restaurants. Surprise, surprise, Stac Polly is now firmly on my list. Take a bow.
|