Trader Vic’s - London
London Hilton, Park Lane, London
+44 (0)20 7208 4113
www.tradervicslondon.com
Review by Angelina Manzano Langdon
Bored of the dreary winter weather and wishing for something exotic, without leaving the country, I decided to book a table at one of London’s most colourful restaurants, Trader Vic’s; a Polynesian-inspired tropical retreat in the heart of London. The very first Trader Vic’s restaurant was opened in 1936 by Victor ‘The Trader’ Bergeron (who is also credited as the inventor of the rum-filled Mai Tai cocktail) and it was the place to be seen if you were a Hollywood A-lister. One of the Trader’s most famous repeat-customers was Howard Hughes, but luckily the restaurant’s reputation for fun fine dining has outlived the aviator’s aerodynamic designs...
Arriving at the restaurant, we decided to kick start the evening with an aperitif at the Boathouse Bar to sample the extravagant cocktails served in equally extravagant Tiki Mugs. Tall ceramic mugs inspired by traditional Polynesian wood carvings. However to get into the holiday spirit, we opted to share the Kava Bowl – a fruity concoction made with rum and grenadine and served in a huge bowl supported figurines of Hula dancers. While we sipped away at the mammoth mixture we admired the restaurant’s interior, which left us felling a little like we had stumbled into a beach hut on some Pacific island, decorated with wooden carvings, flowers and various nautical trinkets.
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Still glowing from the all that rum, we headed to the main restaurant to begin our exotic feast and were not disappointed by starters of Malaysian chicken skewers served with a fruity homemade chutney, the reasonably mild jalapeno cheese balls that were perfect to pick at and a huge portion of smokey BBQ spare ribs which, although messy, were a big hit and could have easily served as a main course.
Still licking our fingers, we were well prepped for the main event. It would be a crime to eat in this restaurant and not sample a dish from their wood-fired oven. A traditional method of cooking from as far back as the Han Dynasty (206 BC-AD 20) which uses smoke and heat from split oak or seasoned wood to slow cook the meat which hangs in the oven, soaking up the woody flavours. I went for the nine spice half chicken from the oven and was not disappointed by the unique smokey flavour and meat that fell off the bone with the barest effort while one friend opted for the Loch Durant salmon which was equally tender and came on a bed of tangy wasabi mash. Another friend opted for the equally famous Calcutta curry which on arrival stirred a little jealousy at the table. Big chunks of tender chicken served in a rich spicy curry sauce.
As our visit was prompted by a special occasion, we ordered a celebratory cake to end our meal. It’s not cheap at £60, and must be ordered when booking as it’s specially prepared by the chef and beautifully iced (with a personal message too if you like), with a boozy fruit filling it was just divine and reminded us of a very moist Christmas cake.
Trader Vic’s is an excellent venue if you have something to celebrate or are looking for an unusual dining experience. It’s not cheap, you can expect a meal for two to cost around £90 without drinks, but the superb food, fun atmosphere and friendly service undoubtedly makes this one of London’s top eateries!
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