The Kitchin - Edinburgh
78 Commercial Street,
Edinburgh, EH6 6LX
+44 (0)131 555 1755
www.thekitchin.com
Review by Nigel Duncan
Tom Kitchin has received a host of critical acclaim since he opened The Kitchin in Edinburgh four years ago.
None other than celebrated reviewer AA Gill of The Sunday Times said: “This food, so plainly Scots, not just in the use of local and national ingredients, is created with an intelligent craft and understated assurance. Nobody in the United Kingdom is cooking or eating better than this.”
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A lot to live up to, but Tom succeeds, and how. Tom's passion for producing quality modern British food influenced by French cooking techniques shines through.
The seasonal menu in his busy destination restaurant is constantly changing. He features fish and shellfish as well as succulent Scottish berries from Perthshire, when available.
From nature to plate is the motto for The Kitchin which is situated in Edinburgh’s now fashionable Leith, a mecca for foodies.
Standards are high and it was no surprise that Tom achieved a celebrated Michelin star six months after opening.
Awards have kept on coming. Scottish chef of the year, restaurant of the year, Place 2 in the UK best restaurants 2009 (Eat Out Magazine) are just some.
Tom and his highly talented, award-winning team are always looking to improve but it is hard to see how.
My meal on a busy lunchtime with over 30 covers in the restaurant was superb, so was the service which was efficient without being overbearing.
Crispy belly of Ayrshire pork for starter proved a mouth-watering selection. It came with crackling which was irresistible and the cumin spiced aubergine caviar was both a surprise and a delight.
My colleague was equally pleased with her ravioli of langoustine, mussels and razorfish, served in a langoustine bisque.
I thought long and hard over the main. Wild mallard duck from the Borders served with savoy cabbage a la crème and a pepper sauce was hugely tempting.
However, seared fillet of wild halibut from Shetland, served with a ragout of coco beans and bacon, was selected. It was outstanding. The individual flavours came through and nothing dominated but the blend was compelling.
One of his signature dishes (pictured), boned and rolled pig’s head, served with roasted tail of langoustine from Anstruther and a crispy ear salad, shows how creative Tom can be. Next time, perhaps.
Sweet was easy. Pear Belle Helene poached in Gullane sea buckthorn was a dream. The sauce was sensational. My companion was drooling over her pistachio soufflé served with pistachio ice cream.
A friend at a neighbouring table was equally effusive about her rum and raisin ice cream served with an orange flan and milk chocolate moose.
A special tea selection and hand-made petit fours proved the ideal end to a memorable lunch. Perfection.
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