Relying on a good old fashioned road map I turned off down a long winding drive, passing dozens of nonplussed deer, and I half expected to hear a voice in the night admonishing me for trespassing on private property. Then there in the distance stood my destination; Paris House, in all its imposing 18th century black and white timbered glory.

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Built in 1878 by the 9th duke of Hastings for the Palace exhibition, Paris House was used as a hospital during the 1st world war and then as a forester’s house until it was bought by Peter Chandler in 1983.

Peter, who passed away recently from cancer, was the first ever English apprentice to the Roux brothers and later on, under his direction Paris House achieved accolades such as ‘restaurant of the year’. Gail Baker now holds the fort and Chefs Ryan Newbold and Aaron Potts, both trained by Peter, continue to cook food in the same well-loved style; classic French cuisine with a touch of the contemporary.

As I entered the bar, the first word that sprang to my mind was cosy, not estate agent parlance for small, but cosy in a good way, small, warm and welcoming. Perhaps because of the recent passing of Peter, there was a dignified solemnity to the atmosphere that was palpable but not unpleasant.

The dining room was decorated in various shades of green, complimenting the vast greenery outside. With home grown vegetables and venison and partridges sourced from Woburn estate there is no shortage of local produce.

For starter I had Smoked Salmon on Brioche with Artichoke Salad and Caviar dressing. The generous portion of dark pink Salmon was brought alive by the salty tang of the dressing.

Tom’s choice of Seared Scallops with Butternut Squash Puree and Bacon Crisp was also very good. The scallops tasted of the sea and on a dark winter’s night in Bedfordshire this was a welcome sensation. The crispiness of the bacon gave the dish a welcome crunch.

With a choice of meat, fish and vegetarian dishes I eventually went for the fluffy white Sea Bass with Braised Fennel and Pernod Cream. There was so much fish and vegetables on my plate I wished for a bit more of the delicate tasting cream. The food went down well with a half bottle of the mineral tasting Domaine Naudet 2007 Sancerre.

Tom’s Cornfed Chicken with Wild Mushroom Ragout & Truffle Cream was delicious and again a generous portion, the meaty mushroom and rich truffle cream making a substantial contribution to the enjoyment of the dish.

Although full we didn’t need much arm twisting when it came to desserts. My Duo of Chocolate with Orange Compote was a winner; the compote was nicely tart and much needed against the rich chocolate desserts. Tom had Hot Raspberry Soufflé; fluffy and packed with deliciously sharp raspberry flavours.

Although there are no bedrooms, Paris House has a private dining room and there is no charge for its exclusive use. Outside there are ample parking spaces and for those in a particular hurry there is even a heliport.

Price per head approximately £55, on Tues-Fri a 2 course costs £20 a 3 course is £25.
Christmas party set menu starts 24th November £30.00 Tues-Fri with an a la carte menu available. The restaurant is open Christmas day and on New Years Eve there will be a piper.