With a list of over 200 old and new world wines, including a choice of 18 wines by the glass, In Vino Veritas is a popular haunt for Brighton wine lovers. You can also choose from over 80 expertly mixed cocktails, and the reasonably priced bistro menu makes it a good choice for those who want great food at recession-friendly prices.

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We visited on a busy Friday night. Both the bar and restaurant were full, but the service was faultless. Owner Steve Pinceau, who spent seven years managing the bar at Hotel du Vin before setting up on his own, greeted us. Once seated we were offered oysters, which we enjoyed as Steve talked us through the wine list, suggesting wines that would complement our choice of food.

Thanks to French Head Chef Guilliame Rambert, the modern European menu has a strong Gallic influence. I opted for Seared Scallops on a bed of Mango Salsa and Red Chard Leaves with Honey and Ginger dressing (£7.85), while my companion chose the Twice Baked Blue D’Auvergne Cheese Soufflé with Red Pepper Coulis and Pea Puree (£5.25). The scallops were succulent, tender and perfectly cooked, and the soufflé was perfectly light. Both dishes were beautifully presented in the style of fine dining rather than traditional bistro fare. To accompany our food, Steve recommended a buttery Good Hope South African Chardonnay with the soufflé and the fragrant La Crema Chardonnay with the scallops.

For the main course, I chose Pan Fried Duck Breast with Shallots Puree, Braised Savoy Cabbage and Griottine Jus (£14.75) and my companion opted for Crispy Pork Belly, Celeriac Dauphinoise, Roasted Pumpkin and Thyme Puree, Calvados and Portabello Mushroom Sauce (£13.75). To accompany the duck, I enjoyed a glass of St Emilion Domiaire des Gordins Bordeaux, while my companion tried the Argentinean Terra Malbec Meddoza. The duck was perfectly cooked: tender, pink and complimented by the sweetness of the shallots and cherry jus. The pork belly was satisfyingly crispy on top and tender beneath, and the accompanying pumpkin and thyme puree and dauphinoise were delicious.

After such a heavenly meal we weren’t sure that we could manage desert, but Steve convinced us to try the Chocolate Fondant with Baileys Ice Cream (£5.25) and the Pistachio Parfait, Red Fruit Coulis and Bitter Chocolate Ice Cream (£5.50). The fondant was cooked to perfection with a deliciously oozing middle. The parfait was my companion’s favourite dish of the evening; the perfectly balanced flavours and textures made for a delicious desert.

It’s no surprise that In Vino Veritas has become such a popular addition to the Brighton restaurant and bar scene. The attentive service and great atmosphere mean it’s the perfect setting for a romantic meal or a night out with friends. The menu is regularly updated and the food is locally sourced wherever possible. Whether you want a three-course meal or tapas, there is a great selection and vegetarians are well catered for, too. You could easily make a night of it at In Vino Veritas, starting downstairs with an aperitif, heading upstairs for dinner, then retiring to the basement for cocktails – for great wine and stylish food that’s reasonable priced, it’s well worth a visit.