The Brasserie - Oxford
Malmaison, Oxford Castle, 3 New Rd, Oxford, OX1 1AY
+44 (0)1865 268 400
Review by Emily Hirschmann
For me, more often than not, what makes or breaks an evening out isn’t so much the food as the location. Where tablecloths and doilies are all very well for afternoon tea with my Gran and the odd black-tie destination is ok for a bit of people-watching, what really floats my proverbial boat is atmosphere and The Brasserie, hidden away in the depths of Oxford Castle’s Malmaison has it in spades.
Imagine, if you will, a boutique-style prison canteen, a strange amalgam of the Marquis de Sade’s dining quarters and a contemporary eatery; brooding lighting, barred windows, cast-iron staircase, the ceiling a maze of exposed pipework and thoroughly sophisticated seating areas. Perhaps I’m over-egging the crème brulee, but this decor, combined with the knowledge that this building served as Oxfords prison for more than eight centuries certainly leaves one with the impression that this may just be a dining experience to remember.
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Despite the Gothic antiquity of the surroundings, the menu at The Brasserie is far from old fashioned, a fusion of French cuisine, traditional English staples (the prospect of brawn and black pudding terrine may have turned this little vegetarian’s stomach, but I’m assured that it really hits the gastronomic mark) and locally sourced goodies. On preliminary inspection the menu does appear to be rather light on vegetarian options, but after a closer look at the days specials and the “homegrown” selection I found myself rather spoilt for choice. After much deliberation I settled on the pappadelle with field mushrooms, served with truffle and mascarpone (£5.95), followed by roasted marrow and courgette spaghetti (£11.95) and inexplicably added to my already carb-loaded meal a side of handcut fries with aioli (£3.25)... What can I say? I REALLY wanted chips! And oh my, they were possibly the nicest fries I’ve ever eaten! My carnivorous companion, on the other hand, plumped for the roast garlic and chicken veloute (£5.95) followed by steak frites (£17.95), accompanied by green beans, shallots and cracked black pepper (£2.95). The wine list is comprehensive, without being overwhelming, and we settled on a very tasty Australian Mad Fish red at £26 per bottle.
Both meals arrived promptly and were very attractively presented. My pappadelle was light and perfectly balanced, ensuring the inclusion of all flavours, which is no mean feat in such a delicate dish. The spaghetti, mercifully lacking the overbearing sauces one comes to expect, relied instead on subtle, fresh ingredients. Unaccustomed to French cooking, my companion failed to notice the “en croute” in the description of the veloute and was somewhat nonplussed by the magnificent pastry covering, but soon tucked in heartily and the 250g naturally reared, grass fed, dry aged rump steak probably needs no introduction. Both feeling somewhat overfed, desert was a lighter affair, consisting of beautiful homemade ice creams and sorbets.
The Brasserie is open seven days a week and offers somewhere a little bit different for an evening’s repast. The feeling is companionable, creating the perfect destination for any occasion. The service is quick, efficient and friendly and the decor, well, a photo doesn’t do it justice – I strongly recommend you go along and experience it for yourself.
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