As if creating the media sensation Worcester Feast Dunker - a biscuit that can be dunked for a world record breaking two minutes and more without disintegrating into a soggy mess - wasn’t enough, the man has worked miracles and (through regular school visits and demonstrations) turned children (and grown ups) on to these ill-reputed miniature cabbages with such recipes as Sprouty Fritters, Sprout Souffle, Sprouty Cake and even Sprouty Cake Ice Cream. How, then, could I not take the challenge! Served with reduced balsamic and sweet chilli sauce, the recipe remains a closely guarded secret but whatever’s in it, suffice to say I too am now a Sprouty Fritter convert.

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But there’s more to Fusion than sprouts! Tucked away down a side road in rural Worcestershire it may be, but that’s not stopped it garnering rave reviews and a clutch of awards in the three years since the couple took over this renovated 60s retro pub and transformed it into an atmospheric restaurant of glowing repute. It speaks volumes for their passion and skills that it was the only non-Birmingham restaurant invited to take part in this year’s Taste of Birmingham festival.

The evening I visited with my wife and younger daughter was also a special Pasta Night, complete with a gnocchi making demonstration, but there were far too many a la carte temptations to resist. A mixed plate of nibbles (£4.50) opened proceedings with homemade Italian breads, olives, sunblush tomatoes in garlic and a delicious aubergine caviar, plus, a taster of those fritters, before moving on to starters.

The sprouts having already unleashed an adventurous spirit, while my other half tucked into Roasted Medallion of Monk fish with bacon, red wine and wild mushroom risotto (£6.95), I honed in on a sizeable portion of Foie Gras Crème Brulee (£6.95). On paper, creamed fattened waterfowl liver served with caramelised sugar topping may not sound too enticing but in practice, served with apples, damson and brandy compote and crumble to the touch thyme shortbread, it’s a bit like breaking into Olympus and nicking the ambrosia. Just don’t tell me the calorie content.

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Purely in the interests of Brassica Oleracea research, you understand, I was easily persuaded to also try the fabulous thick and warming Chestnut and Sprout soup (£4.75), however, not wishing to make it a totally sprout evening, when it came to the main course I passed on the twice baked soufflé (£10.50). While wavering over the choice of steaks, I eventually opted for the trio of Hillworth’s farm lamb; braised stuffed breast, shepherd’s pie, and pan fried noisette served with sweet potatoes, and a tangy redcurrant and perry reduction (£16). While I’m not sure the shepherd’s pie quite works, partly because it’s a bit hard to clear the small round bowl with a fork (though the bread came in handy), its companions were superb, tender and full of the sort of flavour only the finest lamb produces.

For her choice, Jainn-Ann decided to stay at sea with the Fish Platter (£17.50), a well stocked medley of bream, plaice, cod, scallops and yet more Monk fish, in a red wine stock with root vegetables and sweet potato fondant. I was allowed a morsel, and well understood why sharing wasn’t on her mind. Meanwhile, Lucie fancied pasta and, since dishes variously featuring pheasant, blue brie and squid ink didn’t ring her bell, Felice obligingly rustled up her favourite of spaghetti with salmon in a cream sauce which, accompanied by a bowl of perfect tempura vegetables (parsnips, carrots, purple broccoli), was duly pronounced better than the one I make. Annoyingly, I had to agree. Maybe it was the hint of vodka.

Ranging from steamed strawberry jam pudding to Lemon Meringue pie with a taster of four for those unable to decide, desserts (£7.95-£4.95) are no less outstanding. The girls both polished off vanilla Crème Brulee with lavender shortbread while I jealously guarded my indulgently rich Triple Chocolate Terrine with pistachio sauce, chocolate fudge and ball of Irish coffee ice cream before we all finished up with coffees and a plate of homemade biscuits, including mini versions of the legendary Dunker so we could put them to the test. They didn’t disgrace themselves.

A bottle of the recommended Fontana Candida Frascati (£15.50), delicately ripe with hawthorn and apple hints, from an impressively extensive wine list that includes a modestly priced house selection that doesn’t stint on quality, complemented the food admirably.

But it’s not just outstanding cuisine that sets Fusion apart. Ingredients are locally sourced, with commendable awareness of health and allergy issues no flour is used in the sauces, gluten free pasta is available and even the butter is homemade; the service is friendly and, as borne out by the many regulars, there’s a relaxing ‘at home’ vibe that makes you want to just put your feet under the table and stay for the night. I’ve been reviewing restaurants for some 20 years, and have no hesitation in saying Fusion is right up there in my all time Top 10.