We kicked off with my favourite way to start a meal; a Kir Royal in the bar. A cocktail each later and we managed to drag ourselves away from the comfortable banquette with its myriad of colourful, silky cushions. The clever hotel décor with its hues of turquoise blue, green and white made the Atlantic Ocean seem that much closer.

Text continues below advert

Head Chef Adam Clark, who has worked with the likes of John Christoph Nouvelli and Michel Roux Junior, makes full use of local suppliers where possible and aims to “provide good quality food but simply; River Cottage style.” Indigo Bay uses the services of a local forager for wild food garnishes such as Sea Spinach and Samphire. “These garnishes look effective; I don’t like too much faff and fuss” said Adam.

The wine choice was good and included local wine from the Camel Valley vineyard. We had just been to the vineyard to buy a few bottles so we went instead for the Sauvignon Blanc Las Condes, Central Valley, Chile. Reasonably priced at £16.50 it was soft, flowery and fruity.

For starter I had the Twice Baked Swede and Menallack Farm Vintage Cheese Soufflé, with great earthy tasting Rainbow Chard and a Chive Sauce. The soft and cheesy soufflé just about held firm but was delicious. Tom’s Fried Devilled Sardines were beautifully cooked and crispy on the outside, the Sauce Gribliche and Lizard Leaves bringing the tangy sharpness that brought the wonderful fish alive.

A nice gap between meals gave us the chance to enjoy the pleasant environment and the sea views that would have been there if it had been still light enough to enjoy them.

My main was Grilled Plaice Fillets on Stir Fried Bok Choi from the Lizard, Ginger, Lime and Coriander Butter Sauce. The oriental sauce was a deep mix of wonderful ingredients that brought the soft, white fish to a different level. Tom’s Slow Roasted Pork Belly was cooked well although he wished the skin had been a bit crispier. The added sweetness came courtesy of the accompanying Celeriac and Apple Puree, Braised Red Cabbage, Juniper and Cider Pan Juices.

Text continues below advert

The food tasted great and it was wonderful to experience the fresh, local produce at such reasonable prices. I liked the menu references to the locally produced ingredients, leaving me in no doubt about the origins of my food.

My dessert was Mirabelle Plum Bakewell Tart with Clotted Cream. When it comes to clotted cream I am hooked and this particular one was a beautiful addition to the dish, adding a creamy richness to the tart. The tart itself – we weren’t in Bakewell so I won’t call it a pudding - was beautifully cooked and had little in common with the packaged ones you can buy in a shop. The strong almond taste is something people either love or hate; I loved it and enjoyed every mouthful.

Tom’s Cornish Strawberry Shortbread with Vanilla Ice Cream from Zennor, Cornwall and Strawberry Sauce was creamy and sweet; the shortbread was crumbly soft and melted in his mouth.

The 50 year old kitchen was being updated but this didn’t seem to stand in the way of great food being delivered on time, while staff seemed relaxed, friendly and efficient.

If not included in the hotel’s Dinner B&B price, a three course meal excluding wine costs around £28.80 a head.