The Restaurant at The Scarlet Hotel, Cornwall
Tredragon Road,
Mawgan Porth,
Cornwall, TR8 4DG
01637 861800
www.scarlethotel.co.uk
Review by Jane O’Connor
Situated on top of a spectacular cliff in Mawgan Porth with sweeping views across the beach and Atlantic Ocean, the new Scarlet Hotel’s restaurant offers the diner excellent food in a luxurious and eco-friendly setting.
As we entered the restaurant the sun was setting and its orange glow lit up the funky red and mahogany décor. After some effort I managed to drag my gaze away from the Atlantic Ocean with its dramatic surf to take a look at the wine list. It was comprehensive but I would have liked to see some local wines make an appearance. Most wine was available by the glass or in 50cl or 75cl bottles and it was great to have this option. We went for a 50cl bottle of the light and refreshing Vinho Verde 2008 Adega de Monaco.
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Service was efficient and friendly although at times there was a disorganised air among staff that would have benefitted from the watchful eye of a Maitre D’.
To start I had Seared Scallops with Broad Beans, Vermouth and Mint sauce. It was a revelation; I’ve had scallops before but they didn’t taste like this. The deep creamy sauce brought the soft scallops to life and my taste buds soon followed suit.
Tom began with a perfectly cooked Pan fried John Dory, with crisp Whitebait Tempura, Rouille (a rust coloured French sauce used mainly with fish) and a clean tasting Cucumber Chutney. The combination of flavours was well-balanced and enjoyable.
I had Roasted Brill as a main which slid off the bone, while the accompanying Wild Mushrooms, Mussels and Truffle Oil Mash lent the fish a rich meaty flavour without smothering it. Tom’s main of Roast Monkfish Tail was meaty and tender, the Lobster and Basil Risotto was soft and creamy with a tangy sweetness.
The desserts weren’t bad either; I ordered ‘a plate of chocolate’; a vague description that refused to form a picture in my head. It turned out to be a pretty little line of different mini chocolate desserts. Tom’s Almond Pannacotta, Plum doughnut and Crème Brulee had great textures but they were all overpowered by the dominant Star Anise.
Overall the sauces were the star of the show. When they worked, which was most of the time, they sent the food whizzing off to a different dimension. Michelin Award-winning Head Chef Ben Tunnicliffe was not exaggerating when he said “The most important thing about food is the flavour and I try to achieve a depth of flavour at all times.” Where possible he uses local produce and the best he can get his hands on.
The Scarlet’s restaurant is new and still ironing out the creases. The restaurant is aimed at grown-ups and doesn’t allow children under 18.
For non-residents a typical three course meal will cost approximately £40 a head excluding drinks.
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