The Marquis, in picturesque Alkham, has a lot to live up to. The AA guide recently awarded its restaurant two rosettes and placed it in the five star ‘restaurant with rooms’ category. So it’s with more than my usual greedy anticipation that I arrive, boyfriend (and fellow foodie) in tow.

The Marquis was formerly a pub but there’s nothing village-inn like about the sleek bar area where we sit pre-dinner, enjoying the relaxed atmosphere and delicious Whitstable Brewery raspberry wheat beers. Light, refreshing, ice-cold and with a zingy tang of fruit, we declare this local brew our new favourite tipple.

A smiley waitress brings us some canapés: marshmallow-sized chou buns filled with cream cheese and peppered with poppy seeds, alongside flaky olive and anchovy cheese straws. Head Chef Charles Lakin has won us over before we’ve even reached our table.

We’re soon guided to our seating in the intimate dining area, awash with exposed brickwork and romantic lighting. A basket of home-baked bread rolls emerge by our elbows. We choose onion and rosemary and cheese and apricot. Athletically, we polish these off (and the pat of creamy butter with its perfect whisper of salt) and select our starters.

I opt for Alkham rabbit and foie gras terrine and my boyfriend orders Dover caught crab salad. The terrine looks and tastes beautiful, framed with scatterings of jewel-like purple and green salad and cress, with a slick of translucent Muscadet jelly and slices of brioche to compliment the earthy, rich meat. My boyfriend’s salad is sublime, the mini-tower of grated crab accompanied by artful dollops of creamy avocado dip.

The mains continue the edible artistry; my beef in red wine jus with asparagus, mushrooms and shallots is a perfectly cooked poem on the tongue. My boyfriend’s sweetmeats and veal cutlets are rich, creamy and flavoursome. A bottle of spicy Sicilian red provides luscious liquid refreshment.

However, like the Marquis’ menu, I’ve saved the best until last. My banana soufflé with caramel sauce is the most delicious desert I’ve ever tasted. As a sugar-addict since emerging from the womb, this is serious praise. Feather-light, eggy, frothy, with a sugar-dusted crust and buttery caramel sauce, it was quite simply, heaven on a plate. My boyfriend’s cheese board (more cheese empire, with its eleven or so local varieties) failed to distract me from my pudding paradise.

I’m booking a repeat trip to the Marquis and this time, I’m having soufflé starter, soufflé main and soufflé pud. Nice one Charlie.

Prices: Lunch menu, £15.50 2 course, £18.50 3 course; Dinner menu, £17.95 2 course, £22.95 3 course; A la Carte menu, £27.95 2 course, £34.95 3 course; Sunday lunch, £15.95 2 course, £19.95 3 course. A bottle of red wine starts from £14.50.