Thankfully, my client knew the way as the five-star Peat Inn is tucked away in a small village six miles from the home of golf at St Andrews.

As we drove through the village and I almost missed this understated restaurant which is privately owned by chef-patron Geoffrey Smeddle and his wife Katherine together with a small, dedicated team.

The Peat Inn has been synonymous with good food and wine for decades and is housed in traditional Scottish cottages. The feel was enhanced by the smell of wood burning in a roaring log fire. It was almost like walking into somebody’s front room.

We ordered in the homely reception area. Sadly, the leather seats were a tad uncomfortable, but the welcome was genuine. I’d informed management when booking the day before that I had a lactose deficiency (no dairy) and that’s where we had a small problem. “I’ll see what the chef can do,” said the head waiter. I expected better. My guest ordered mushroom consomme and plaice. My option. The same minus a drizzle of butter over the vegetables because of the dairy problem.

We were called to our table in the one of the dining rooms overlooking the cottage garden in the 45-seat establishment. I was heartened by the selection of warm rolls. The olive was exceptional and I also experimented with pumpkin – interesting. The consommé arrived. Presentation was exceptional. A small bed of mushrooms, with two quails eggs and a sprig of parsley on a white plate. Imaginative and highly-creative. The consommé came in a copper pan – and the taste was wonderful. One complaint was that the liquid was a tad cold.

The main arrived. The plaice was topped with slivers of lemon and croutons and slipped off the bone. The subtle taste of the fish, however, was slightly overpowered by the lemon. Sweet followed and my guest choose a succulent fondant, oozing with rich dark chocolate. He enthused.

For me. The only option was sorbet. Three different flavours, all with a rich flavour.

With coffee and herbal tea, plus a half bottle of wine from a list comprising over 400, taking in famous and lesser known vineyards, the bill was £91 of which the drinks quotient was £36. The award-winning Peat Inn boasts classical cooking based on French cuisine and depends on local ingredients sourced from small-scale artisan suppliers. Commendable.

It also boasts The Residence, eight suites for a special night away, only a few steps from the restaurant. It’s certainly a relaxing place for lunch. Memorable, yes, but I didn’t find it “the ultimate experience” as claimed in the tri-fold brochure.

Nigel Duncan