Bertorelli (Frith Street), London
37, St Martin’s Lane, London WC2 4ER
Tel: 020 77836 5837
Bertorelli is one of those restaurants that you can go to for a relaxed lunch or evening meal – a home from home if you will. The atmosphere is lively and welcoming, the service is friendly but not overbearing and the whole place won’t freeze in silence if you drop your side knife.
My guest and I decided to take our time, soak up the atmosphere and enjoy our aperitifs. After a pre starter of bread, olive oil and deliciously marinated olives I went for the Insalata di Spinaci e Gorgonzola, translated as Tiger prawns wrapped in pancetta, gorgonzola and baby spinach salad. This is as delicious as it sounds – juicy fat tiger prawns wrapped in crispy pancetta with the added tang of a good gorgonzola.
My vegetarian guest went for the generously sized Insalata di spinacini, pomodori secchi e caprino - crumbled goat's cheese, baby spinach and sun blushed tomato salad with pine nuts and a light lemon dressing. The sweetness of the sun blushed really compliments the creamy tasty goat’s cheese. It’s worth noting that there are plenty of vegetarian options and the chef uses free-range eggs.
For the main course I went for Branzino arrosto con arancino al pesto - Baked sea bass with a basil and pine nut risotto cake and lemon oil – and my guest had the Fusilli primavera - Fusilli pasta with goat’s cheese, cherry tomatoes, peas, pesto and rocket. Side dishes came in the form of delicious sautéed spinach with butter and garlic and a hard to get wrong rocket and parmesan salad with balsamic dressing. The sea bass was excellent, perfectly cooked with the nice addition of a traditional pesto risotto cake. My guest’s fusilli was cooked to al dente perfection and I was informed that the many different flavours danced on her tongue.
For deserts we went for Bruschetta di pollo affumicato - Thin puff pastry apple tart served warm with vanilla pod ice cream – and you can’t leave without trying Berotorelli’s section of homemade Italian ice-cream or gelato if you will. The pistachio is delicious.
I’d recommend finishing with a traditional southern Italian digestive of limoncello, which is basically a sweetened lemon infused vodka. It’s far more refreshing than Cognac and the Italians love it.
To sum up, Bertorelli is a reasonably priced restaurant offering good Italian fare. It is also excellently positioned just 5 minutes walk from Leicester Square tube. You do get the feeling that the waiters have a little to learn before they graduate to the Ivy - “Is Cognac a desert wine?” was the reply to my request for an accompaniment to my pudding – but the staff are all very polite, albeit in a laid back way, and more importantly they’re efficient at getting the food on the table in good time for such a busy eatery.
Tim Hirschmann
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