On the fifth floor of the Apex International Hotel in Edinburgh’s Grassmarket you will find the most delightful views over the capital’s undulating roof tops and hidden alleyways. Overlooking the impressive castle, the Heights can probably claim the best view in Edinburgh, after the castle itself! They say they can almost guarantee everyone a table by the glass wall of windows to take all of this in. The hushed atmosphere is typical of a hotel restaurant, catering to the international market of its clientele, they have created something of a blank canvas to balance the great view which is pleasant if a little soulless. White curtains adorn every wall, and the lights are bright and a touch unflattering.

A pleasant chefs welcome of halibut and smoked salmon arrived, with a cold ratatouille for the vegetarian. We opted for an extremely decent Beaujolais, rich and full bodied which was exceedingly drinkable and I can thoroughly recommend. Starters were a Highland game terrine with bramble marmalade and Arran oatcakes, which was agreeable, not least for its local origins. I couldn’t resist trying the unusual sounding Cauliflower mousse with dandelion relish, which was ambitious. However, the dandelion had a very strong flavour which slightly overpowered the mousse. The parmesan basket that contained the relish was a welcome addition.

Main courses were of varying quality. The Inverloch goat’s cheese soufflé was absolutely delicious – light and melting in the mouth, with lovely antipasti vegetables to accompany it. The Seared john dory with braised black Angus ox cheek and celeriac mash can only be described as bizarre. This light white fish was wonderful, but totally overpowered by the strong dark meat and gravy. The celeriac mash was delicious and a great texture. Over-complication was, I think, the issue here. The Heights have sourced great local Scottish produce for their savoury courses, and it is a shame that these flavours are not allowed to speak for themselves and stand alone.

Though the sweet menu looked very appealing, with traditional Scottish Cranachan and strawberry fool with chocolate fudge ice-cream, again there were some over- complicated flavours to be had, with the frozen whiskey cream, prunes and earl grey syrup. However we did not manage to stay for a dessert as the restaurant closes and 9.45pm and we were hovered over by the staff itching to leave.

In all this restaurant will make a wonderful eatery if they relax. The view is a great draw, and once the lights are dimmed and the chef lets the great local produce stand alone I’m sure this the Heights will be buzzing.