The atmosphere in Antonio Carluccio’s newly opened Brighton caffé was buzzing as we walked in on a bitterly cold February lunchtime. It was extremely busy; always a good sign in a city full of good eateries; word had obviously got around.

Our very amiable waiter brought us a selection of Italian breads with olive oil to nibble on while we pondered over a varied menu with not a sign of a pizza anywhere. For starters I chose two crispy deep fried rice balls, one filled with mozzarella, the other with meat ragù and served with a delicious red pepper sauce. This is a fairly substantial starter but definitely worth trying. The crispy outer shell cracks open to reveal a soft fluffy rice interior with the subtle additions of mozzarella and ragù. The red pepper sauce is served in a separate side bowl thus avoiding soggy rice balls. My guest decided to start with one of the specials and opted for ravioli stuffed with pumpkin and amaretti served in a light butter sauce. This seemed such an odd combination that I just had to snaffle some from her plate and oh my goodness it was quite simply divine. The wonderfully simple flavours shone through a sensational fusion of sweet and savoury encased in a silky pasta case. Inspirational!

I chose my main course from the specials board; a simple dish of chicken breast in a lemon and caper sauce served with green beans and a side salad rather than anything heavier as I was determined to leave room for one of the desserts I’d spied further on in the menu. The chicken breast was seared on the outside and beautifully tender and moist on the inside while the lemon and caper sauce provided a refreshingly zingy contrast. My guest chose a dish from the main menu; perfectly cooked fresh penne tossed with lightly sautéed grated courgette, chilli and garlic served with strange-looking but great-tasting deep fried spinach balls. Again, simple unfussy cooking combining great flavours to create truly delicious authentic Italian cuisine.

I was all set to order my usual panna cotta desert but had my mind changed by our very persuasive waiter who steered me quite firmly towards his personal favourite, pesche all’amaretto; half a peach marinated in wine served with peach and amaretti pureé, an amaretti biscuit and vanilla cream. I have to admit he made an excellent choice for me; one that I very nearly missed out on. My guest opted for one of her favourites, torta di limone; a sweet pastry with a rich lemon filling. Definitely one of the best she’s ever tasted!

Our meal was consumed in happy chatty surroundings where children were made welcome with crayons and paper to draw on. Diners are sat at long communal tables with strategically placed Antonio Carluccio cookbooks to peruse whilst waiting for the meal to arrive. If communal dining isn’t to your taste then there are plenty of tables for two along each side of the restaurant. Service is quick and efficient despite the volume of customers with staff maintaining a cheery helpful attitude.

The menu is very reasonably priced considering the quality and quantity of the servings; main meals ranging from £4.95 for a focaccia to £10.95 for a chargrilled ribeye steak.