Rhodes W1
The Cumberland Hotel, W1A 4RF 
Telephone: 020 7479 3838

The last few years has taught us to be slightly cautious when approaching anything that a celebrity chef has put their name to. For every success story you’ll get a handful of dodgy franchises, fraying pans, food mixers or chocolates (no names mentioned). Thankfully Rhodes W1 is a serious venture and not a slapdash attempt to make a quick buck.

My guest was late so I had the pleasure of sampling a couple of drinks at the bar. The head barman at The Cumberland really knows his stuff. He prepared me a deceptively smooth litchi Daiquiri which sent down like a delicious fruit punch. After I complimented him on the cocktail he told me that if I liked that I should try his new invention, litchi infused vodka. He had been soaking litchis in blue Smirnoff vodka for the last 3 months. Even served neat this was delicious.

Finally my guest arrived and we were shown to our table for Sunday lunch by the friendly but not overbearing waiter. The décor of the cocktail style dining room is stylish but comfortable with seating on leather banquettes or at raised tables. The lunch time wine list isn’t huge but it has been carefully selected. It also has many reasonably priced selections.

For starter I chose Crayfish pasta with wine, cream and garlic sauce. This was delicious! My guest went for the hot foie gras with orange brioche toast and sweet oranges. The foie gras was melt in the mouth and well complimented by the sweet brioche and oranges but I think the Crayfish pasta had the edge.

For the main course I had Halibut Veronique which, along with a few other items on the menu, was strangely reminiscent of the sort of food I was taught to cook at catering college in the late eighties. As illustrated with his latest book, ‘Keeping It Simple’, Gary’s main strength as a chef is coming up with simple but tasty and well executed dishes. My guest went for the braised oxtail with mashed potato, a dish which Gary himself has said he would have as his last meal if he was given the choice.

Finally for desert, you can’t leave without trying Gary’s signature dish, Bread & Butter Pudding. This may sound like an unremarkable desert to have

The food at Rhodes W1 is more old fashioned than fashionable. This is simple traditional English fayre with a heavy French influence. You get the impression he hasn’t strayed to far from pen since first becoming a chef. Having said this, what Gary does he does very well. You’ll find it hard to find these old staples prepared and cooked any better. And with an average price of £30 a head you won’t need to pay the earth.