Bodean’s
10 Poland St, Soho, London, W1
Tel: 020 7287 7575

As the summer weather hangs in the balance forget firing up your own BBQ and head down to Bodean’s for a taste of gourmet BBQ Deep South style. Situated below the cheery Bodean’s American diner, The Rib Room is a very different affair. Dark leather booths lit by sculptural antler lamps fill this intimate wood panelled restaurant, with an unmistakably American decor that is subtle and inviting. The feel is sophisticated but fun, with unassuming plasma screens showing muted American football games.

The menu offers a range of steak, crayfish, salads and burgers, but the real stars are the BBQ chicken and ribs from the wood burning smoke pit – they take their barbequing seriously. Don’t expect to clear your plate either, the portions are more than generous with ribs the length of your forearm, though it seems a shame not to order the traditional sides of Corn on the Cob, Pulled Pork and the surprisingly rich roasted Mixed Vegetables. The steak comes with a light buttery mushroom sauce, not to be missed. Vegetarian options are limited but delicious like the lovely (and enormous) Spinach, Mushroom and Smoked Gruyere Roulade served with a tomato ratatouille. There is a plethora of condiments on offer, but they should lie untouched since the food stands out unaccompanied.

As full as you may be after this feast, it certainly doesn’t end here as Bodeans have a divine desert menu, with quirky ice creams such as Nutmeg - like melting custard - and Brownie ice cream Pie - unbearably good, vanilla pod ice cream laced with dark rich chocolate brownie.

To compliment this is a range of good wines, though surprisingly only one is from the US, and a range of European, American and Mexican beers. But the drinks to go for, in the name of sheer decadence, are the expertly mixed speciality cocktails. A Bodean’s Buffalo Old Fashioned made with Buffalo Trace Bourbon, sugar, Angostura Bitters and Maraschino Liqueur will initially blow your head off but is long, delicious and refined, and the Queen of Bahia is a heady meal in itself with fresh lime and raspberries in Golden Rum, passion fruit juice and Passion and Raspberry Liqueur.

This is not food to be taken lightly, but you will roll out of Bodean’s bursting and relaxed, never to burn a frozen burger in the garden again.

Isabel Robinson