First a declaration of interests: I love Rioja, and in a previous life spent many happy hours negotiating business in Spain over a glass or several of Riojas that never seem to make it to this country. But this one comes exceedingly close.
Text continues below image

Cune’s 2006 Crianza meets all the demands of those who enjoy the breed: almost cricket ball red in the glass; having spent at least 12 months in American oak the flavour is wooden enough to rival a Hollyoaks episode; it’s smooth though, with more acid than tannin in the balanced mouthful; and there is plenty of fruit - predominantly cherries and raspberries – along with a hint of pepper and lots of oaky vanilla. All pretty much as expected of a drinkable Rioja. But for me this has that bit more that makes it very drinkable indeed.

The X-factor here is something that can’t really exist, but that the wine manages to convey anyway: it has a taste of sunshine. All too often that association with sun we get drinking ‘the wine of the country’ disappears when we try the same bottle back home. Only a bit of it was in the bottle, the rest almost certainly coming from our relaxed holiday mood, or the relief of after business dining, and the real sunshine around us. Sipping it in Lancashire in March we can largely discount the influence of the weather.

Reports of growing conditions for this hint at near optimal conditions, with lots of sunshine throughout the spring and summer (evidenced in the 13.5% ABV). Maybe the winemaker has learned the secret of capturing the sun in processing the grapes – 80% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha Tinta and Mazula. Alternatively, the fact that this is the first Rioja Crianza in a screwtop bottle may have helped retain the fresh flavours.

This is not a great wine in terms of complexity, and it won’t mature much if at all; but then buying a bottle now to go with your paella or a nice peppery beef estofado that won’t concern you; pleasurable drinking will. A definite recommend.