While various regions of France are virtually synonymous with their vineyards, there’s probably an equal number of fine gallic wines emanating from comparatively unheralded domains, and it’s with this knowledge that UK importers Hix & Buck are hoping to impress you. Their 2007 Mas d’Intras Vin de Pays des Coteaux de l'Ardèche is a worthy introduction, hailing from an area west of the Rhône Valley, one that benefits from an ideal climate but has suffered, comparatively, due to its dry and chalky soils.
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This Syrah is engagingly dark, not especially robust, but slight and subtle enough to impress. Purchased as a fresh, buoyant partner to new season lamb (exactly as Hix & Buck recommend) it should please and surprise in equal quantity. Drunk on its own, however, its long and unusual finish is likely to divide opinion.

One thing that’s notable about this Ardèche wine is that while its plummy berry tang is very evident, it’s nothing like as rich or as consuming as many syrah or shiraz varieties, and while the finish is enjoyably long, it must be described as peppery rather than fruity. It is the latter that will lead some to reach for more tried and trusted flavours.

That sharpness on an otherwise smooth wine reminds you of the need for it to be consumed in the correct context. Taken as an accompaniment to lamb or red meat dishes, that peppery edge is nothing like as pronounced and the Mas d’Intras slips down unobtrusively. It certainly compliments the richness of meat dishes – while never overwhelming the palate with flavours, its very drinkability makes it more-ish and crucially does not detract from the gastronomic pleasures of the season. Fresh as its notes of black fruit are, it seems more closely aligned with merlot than shiraz. Think perhaps of a merlot done by filmmaker M Night Shyamalan, always with a dark twist…

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