The Lebanese Cookbook
Hussien Dekmak
Published by Kyle Cathie
Review by Emma Slawinski
 Through the thoughtful recipe selections of the author and the exquisite photography of Martin Brigdale – which will induce instant pangs of hunger - The Lebanese Cookbook transports you to Lebanese markets, olive groves, and family tables. An evocative fusion of the exotic and the comforting, it comes across more like an almanac of culinary magic than an ordinary cookbook. In its pages a simple repertoire of ingredients – aubergines, chickpeas, lamb, parsley, and cumin amongst them - are reworked in a variety of ways, and transformed into unfeasibly mouthwatering dishes.
Perhaps not a book for dieters, given the prevalence of deep-frying and the large amounts of olive oil (at least it’s a ‘good’ fat) the food style has an earthy richness to it, piquant with generous use of garlic, onion, tomatoes and Lebanese spices. Besides well-known favourites like falafel, tabbouleh and hummus, there are many unfamiliar, but instantly appealing dishes. A sticky, slow-cooked mess of chickpea and tomato piled onto slices of deep-fried aubergine - moussaka bi zeit - makes spectacular use of just three main ingredients and proves vegetarian dishes can be just as decadent as their meaty counterparts.
Creamy tahini (sesame paste) is another recurring ingredient, topping a succulent tray of lamb kofta or finishing off crispy-skinned red snapper cooked with chilli. Meze and side dishes are given pride of place, and include fattoush, the classic Lebanese salad flavoured with the lemony spice sumac; moujadara, rice and lentils garnished with crispy onion; and fouter moukala, a tasty treat of deep fried mushrooms finished with garlic and coriander. All the photographed dishes are presented beautifully, using a kaleidoscopic and very covetable collection of tableware.
The best thing about this book is its approachability – it’s a great resource for cooks with adventurous taste buds but little experience. Veteran cooks might demand more comprehensive information on ingredients and food culture, but it’s a minor quibble. The recipes lend themselves to almost any situation, from family meals and entertaining, to summer barbecues and picnics – start practicing now and in no time you’ll be wowing your guests with Lebanon’s sunny cuisine.
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